I Sea Sky

One Monday morning in April, we found ourselves waking up, or rather, staying awake at 2 AM for our long-awaited trip to the northern isles of the country. My dad, brother, and I were very excited because our trip was postponed a few times because of bad weather conditions. But at last, our much-anticipated adventure found its way on the road to wind-swept and stone-armored shores.

We never knew what was in store for us; we just know that we are off to the northernmost tip of our country with unpredictable weather conditions, stone houses, and very honest people. I also know and feel that all roads lead to something extraordinary and seeing the islands outside my window on the plane already gave me excitement that just felt different—just hauntingly beautiful.

           

There is nothing like the solitude that is Batanes. One can already feel a difference in the air upon stepping out of the plane after about an hour and 45-minute flight from Manila. The wind sounds like an old song playing on a phonograph as we walk toward the airport which was small, but had an Ivatan-inspired façade of stones and cozy wooden interiors with walls that were adorned by picture frames, each telling a story about the picturesque sceneries of Batanes. The people gave us warm smiles and welcomed us to a place that felt so cold and abandoned, but was actually a place that holds a different kind of peace.

           
      We then rode a Toyota Hi-ace van to Batanes Resort where the other tourists were also accommodated. The cottages were made of stone like how traditional Ivatan houses were built. Breakfast was served to us before we went to our room, and the breakfast menu was, longganisa, daing na bangus, and flying fish. We chose what was familiar to us, just to be safe, but doing so made us miss one of Batanes’ specialties—the flying fish—that is why we ordered it for the next two days.

Two days—such a short time to enjoy one of nature’s grandeurs—perhaps, the transience of every moment gives transcendence to the memory of its beauty. Very ironic, but true—the fleeting memories are the ones we treasure most. This place will truly be one of the places I will forever treasure, and you will know why as we go on.

Batanes is composed of eleven islands, but only three of them are inhabited, namely: Batan, where the capital, Basco, is located, and the other two being Sabtang and Itbayat. The other islands serve as pasturelands and fishing grounds to the locals.  On our first day in Batanes, we started our tour at around 1 PM with Kuya Chris as our guide.  Our itinerary was to go around the northern part of Batan Island. Our first stop was Mt. Carmel Chapel in Baranggay Tucon in Basco, which was made of stone and had its walls adorned with saints painted by Ivatan artists. The chapel reminded me of the church in Caleruega in Nasugbu, Batangas because they both seem to be ideal places for church weddings. The other churches we visited were the Sto. Domingo Cathedral in Basco, which was the oldest church built in the 18^th century, San Carlos Borromeo Church in Mahatao built in 1873, and San Jose de Ivana which was one of the most preserved churches in Batanes with a foundation dating back to 1795. If you are planning to have your wedding in Batanes, there is a perfect place for a honeymoon, Fundacion Pacita, owned by the renowned local artist, Pacita Abad. It is located on top of a cliff bordered by the sea and sky. Still, Batanes is in itself a perfect place for a honeymoon because it gives you a feeling of isolation, perfect for romantics; imagine living in your own island and creating an entirely new world.

In the early history of Batanes, there is already a thriving civilization ruled by great chieftains who imposed taxes, implemented laws, and exerted military force mainly during attacks from other tribes. However, when western colonization erupted, the Ivatans used fortresses called Idjangs as their shelter when the Spanish conquered their lands. These fortresses are perched on top of hills all around the islands of the province.

           

During the Second World War, the Dipnaysupuan Japanese Tunnel served as a hiding place for the Japanese. It was in Batanes that the site of the first Japanese landing took place, which concurred with the time of the bombing of Pearl Harbor. The tunnel felt like it was furnished with wind curtains that left us with goose bumps. From outside, the tunnel looked like a serpent that opened its mouth ready for attack, but was turned into stone by its prey.

Other sights we visited on the first day were the Valugan Boulder Bay, Vayang Rolling Hills, Mahatao Hedgerows, and the Naidi Lighthouse. If skipping stones on the river are too simple for you, try testing your balance and timing through massive pieces of stone at the Valugan Boulder Bay. Our guide balanced pieces of stone on top of each other making a stone tower and he also showed us how to practice timing by tossing up a piece of rock and hitting it with another rock. It was just like doing a serve in tennis or volleyball but with heavier balls and having weights attached to your arms. The Vayang Rolling Hills and Mahatao Hedgerows reminded me of The Shire in J.R.R. Tolkien’s world of Middle-Earth, with its green hills and trees that look like broccoli. I just could not help but imagine hobbits coming out of holes in the hills with their curly hair and hairy feet. Hobbits in Batanes—now that is just precious. The Mahatao hedgerows are boundaries made of flora to border land ownership and give protection to crops. We also learned that the oldest working lighthouse in the province was considered to be the Basco lighthouse in Naidi hills. It was our last stop for the day but the rain hindered us from entering and urged us go back to our resort for an early day’s rest.

Back in the resort, we discussed the next day’s itinerary with our guide. He said if the winds can tame the ocean, then we could go on a tour in Sabtang Island, which is a 30-minute boat ride from Batan. Another choice would be a tour of central and south Batan. Of course, we chose to befriend the waves so we can explore the islands. Unfortunately, another guide advised us not to go for Sabtang because of the possibility of getting stranded because of high tides. We were absolutely good with that, except for the fact that our flight home will be on the third day and getting stranded would possibly make us miss our flight. Despite our thirst for some waves, we just had to leave the quenching to the rest of Batan just to be safe.

The next day was just spectacular. Staying on land wasn’t so bad after all. However, seeing the pleasant weather all throughout the day made us feel a bit regretful because we could have gone to Sabtang. But it was alright, the other side of Batan was worth a consolation. 

Cliffs that hang over the blue, waves that touch the sky, monoliths of magnanimity, Marlboro Hills, Fountain of Youth, the resilience of Stone Houses and of the Ivatan spirit—these are the things that I hold on to, I hold true. But knowing that there is still more to Batanes when everything we saw was sheer paradise made me think of the path that we didn’t take. Perhaps, that journey still exists somewhere in the future. For now, let me beguile you with the beauty of Batan.

Being in Batanes just makes me forget about the world, because there is an entirely new and better world in this expanse of land and sea. It makes me see the rest of the world as only a shadow of the past, a void of utter confusion. It makes me feel like a hobbit, who is ever so in love with the Shire, and never desires anything but to live there all his life. But then, I have become a Bilbo Baggins, who always searches for adventures, because for him, the road goes ever on and on.

And on and on the meandering road extends itself for us, from the Chavos Cliffs to the Pasturelands of Raku Payaman. The cliffs that hang over the sky and the waves that are perpetually in pursuit of greater heights make me think of people in pursuit of greatness. What if the waters remain stagnant—then they will never reach anything.

Through the Juvas Fishing Village, one can discover a Fountain of Youth, after about an 800-meter trek. The said fountain is a man-made spring with waters that flow from a river in the mountains and with a pool with the view of the sea and the sky. We had the place all to ourselves for 30 minutes and it was literally like having our own private infinity pool.

           

That day, we also visited traditional Ivatan Stone Houses, and one of the most beautiful houses was the House of Dakay in the town of Ivana where Lola Florestida Estrella lives. She was a kind and happy old lady with a smile that did not reflect the number of her years, like her house that survived the 1918 earthquake which made it one of the oldest existing stone houses in Batanes.

The province with a population of only 17, 000 is also known to have the lowest criminal rate in the country and the Honesty Coffee Shop in Ivana is there to prove it. The owner leaves the shop unsupervised with only a notebook for the customers to record what they have purchased from the store and a little box to put in the money. Also, the BLOW UR HORN road signs are also simply remarkable. Since the roads in the province are very narrow and only one vehicle can fit, there are signs that tell motorists to blow their horns to signal anyone that there is a vehicle approaching on blind turns. I think twice did we encounter a vehicle nearly crashing towards us on the winding roads, but good thing the sign saved us from such accidents.

The afternoon went on slowly but each moment fleeting because it is chased on by another moment. Though, the places we saw like the Songsong Ruins, the Alapad Hills, the Long Range Station Barracks, and the Raku Payaman Pasture Lands which is also known as the Marlboro Hills, did not flee our memories. The hills with horses, carabaos, goats are all together grazing on the green. It was like visiting Australia or New Zealand. The hills are like stairways to the sky, everything felt like it was to stay that way, like we were to stay where we are, time stops and the world is right there in front of us, waiting for us to conquer it.

It seemed that the day would never end, but the curtains of stars had closed in on us and it was the light house in Basco that guided us to our dinner. It was a cozy little restaurant overlooking the Basco light house that guides sailors and fishermen and maybe lost souls, but that would be a bit scary. So perhaps, it can represent home, and maybe that is why there is a restaurant near it because the food really felt like home. In fact, everything we ate during our stay were all very delightful, the flavors of Batanes truly nourished us to our heart’s content.

To leave the northern isles the next day was painful deep inside because we already have fallen in love with it in such short a time. Batanes will always live in the present and in the future because we will always come back. There is no knowing where the waves would take us next.

You can never cross the ocean unless you have the courage to lose sight of the shore.